In this episode, we’re thrilled to welcome Xian, an accomplished climber, climbing coach, and writer.
With over 20 years of experience in the climbing world, Xian's journey has transformed from an enthusiastic gym rat to an international competitor, and now she focuses on outdoor performance, coaching, and writing.
Climbing has been a powerful force in Xian's life, helping her uncover her true self and shape her aspirations. Her passion for the sport culminated in her recently published book, Smooth: Movement Principles and Techniques for Climbing, where she shares valuable insights on the art of climbing.
Join us as Xian discusses her evolution in the climbing community, the principles behind effective movement, and how climbing continues to influence her life.
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Show notes
Who is Xian
Xian’s climbing journey spanning nearly 20 years
Transitioning from competition climbing to outdoor climbing and coaching
Insights into Xian’s new book, Smooth, focused on climbing techniques and principles
Xian’s upbringing in Singapore, a highly urbanized city-state
Joining a climbing club at 15 and discovering a passion for climbing
Her first outdoor climbing experience in Thailand
The impact of limestone cliffs in Thailand on Xian’s climbing perspective
Adjusting to outdoor climbing challenges, including basic accommodations and new environments
How climbing introduced Xian to the outdoors and a different lifestyle.
The lack of outdoor exposure growing up in Singapore.
Choosing the University of St Andrews in Scotland for a dramatically different experience
Experiencing four seasons for the first time after moving from Singapore
Transitioning from the humid climate of Singapore to Scotland’s cooler, rainier weather
Initial struggles with outdoor culture and gear at St Andrews
The humourous story of learning the importance of proper hiking boots rather than Converse sneakers
Joining the mountaineering club and exploring Scotland’s Highlands
The differences between indoor climbing culture in Singapore and mountaineering culture in Scotland
Adjusting to student-led mountaineering trips and the challenges they brought
Xian’s progression from indoor climbing to mastering various climbing disciplines
Key differences between bouldering, sport climbing, and traditional climbing
The unique challenges of placing protection in traditional climbing
Her philosophy on climbing movement and technique
How she balances her roles as a coach, climber, and author
Why she wrote Smooth and her goals for sharing climbing knowledge
Reflections on the cultural shift from Singapore to the UK
The value of seasons and outdoor environments in shaping Xian’s climbing journey
Building resilience through challenging and unpredictable climbing environments
Xian’s thoughts on connecting with nature through climbing
Xian’s current climbing routine and goals
How she balanced full-time coaching and writing a book
The origins of her book idea
What readers can expect from her book
An overview of common climbing mistakes
Why good footwork is crucial in climbing
Her experiences with recurring climbing injuries
How injuries became opportunities for self-improvement
Lessons learned from shoulder injuries and improper technique
The importance of addressing the root causes of injuries
How a severe back injury changed Xian’s approach to training
The importance of recovery and balancing training load
Why injuries are common but manageable in climbing and athletics
Her thoughts on injury prevention and care
One of Xian’s most magical climbing experiences in France
How climbing unique locations enhances the experience
The mental challenge of committing to difficult climbs
Insights into Xian’s coaching philosophy.
The rewards of overcoming challenges in climbing
How she balances professional and personal climbing goals
The role of perseverance in achieving long-term climbing success
Finding joy in sharing her knowledge through writing and coaching
Final words of advice
Social Media
Website www.xiangoh.com
Instagram @xiangoh_
Facebook @xiangohcoach
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