Discover the continuation of my Camino Primitivo journey as I trek from Grandas de Salime to the sacred destination of Santiago de Compostela - Cathedral, sharing more incredible landscapes and spiritual insights. 🌳🏞️⛪
Haven’t read the first part yet? Start from the beginning here: Day 0-6: Camino Primitivo
🥾 The Camino Primitivo 🇪🇸 ℹ️ Stats - Day 7
Date: Tuesday 19th September
Weather: in the fog and clouds until 11.30 am - then glorious sunshine and super hot for the rest of the day!
From: Grandas de Salime
Start time: 8.30am
To: A Fonsagrada
End time: 1.40pm
Accommodation: municipal albergue - bottom bunk. Nice spacious room. Plus no one above me.
Terrain: Mountain View’s, forests, roads and gravel tracks.
🥾Miles: 18 miles
🦶Steps: 35,141
Total miles: 92/199 46% done ✅
💰Costs: albergue €10
Food €9.89 - gf cookies,crisps, sweets, 2x chocolate, 2x tangerine 🍊, grapes.
Subjective feeling out of 10 on:
Enjoyment: 10/10 love days like today!
Fatigue: 2/10 - felt so strong! Although almost hit the wall just before reaching the town as I hadn’t eaten all day and done 17 miles.
Ease of terrain: 4/10 - it was great - loving the mountains & the descents. Really great walking/running.
Highlights - the whole day was a highlight. Stunning views, beautiful downhill running (ran about 4 miles - 40mins) felt super strong. Arrived at 1.30pm ish - got checked in and sorted out by 2pm - then spend the afternoon sunbathing and chatting with other pilgrims. Power Nap 💤 at 7pm.
Challenges - a bit of a struggle to find the municipal albergue- not signposted how they usually are. Plus I thought it was expensive €10. There was no kitchen - which makes eating good food harder. As I ended up buying more snacky food to eat.
🥾 The Camino Primitivo 🇪🇸 ℹ️ Stats - Day 8
Date: Wednesday 20th September
Walked with Carl (Austrian 🇦🇹)
Weather: foggy, misty, cold ish wind.
From: A Fonsagrada
Start time: 8.03am
To: Cadavo
End time: 1.11pm
Accommodation: municipal albergue
Terrain: a few mountains climbs, road walking, gravel paths, forests.
🥾Miles: 18.2 miles
🦶Steps: 35,653
Total miles: 107/199 = 54% done ✅
💰Costs: albergue €10
Cooked my remaining GF pasta and had it with olive oil and mixed seeds & nuts. Got 2 sachets of honey and some gf biscuits left. Time for a shop tomorrow.
Subjective feeling out of 10 on:
Enjoyment: 9/10 another awesome day!
Fatigue: 2/10 - felt great during the walk -
Pretty wiped by 4pm - ready for an afternoon nap 💤
Ease of terrain: 4/10 - loving the mountain routes. Good climbing and some great descents.
Highlights - the morning mountain walk - running the downhill sections. (About 3 miles). Getting to the albergue at 1.11pm, afternoon nap 💤 and chilling for the rest of the afternoon. Ready for an early night and some big miles tomorrow.
Challenges - none really!
Watch the vlog HERE
🥾 The Camino Primitivo 🇪🇸 ℹ️ Stats - Day 9
Date: Thursday 21st September
Weather: cold, cloudy, a bit of drizzle. Not a great weather day.
From: Cadavo
Start time: 8am - didn’t have the best night sleep and was awake at 7am so decided to get up and get moving.
To: Lugo
End time: 2pm.
Accommodation: municipal albergue - top bunk
Terrain: gravel tracks, forest, road walking.
🥾Miles: 18 miles + 3 miles walking around the city.
🦶Steps: 43,348
Total miles: 126/199 = 63% done ✅
💰Costs: today was not a good day for money. I spent so much. Don’t go food shopping or make decisions when you are tied and hungry. I made bad decisions.
Albergue €10
Icecream & crisps €3.80
Wine €1.50
Food resupply €27 - crisps, 3x tangerine, gf chocolate biscuits, gf mini cupcakes, 2x chewy sweets, peanut M&Ms, chocolate bar, rice cakes, tuna (in a glass jar), green juice, 3x mini toblerone.
Hot chocolate €1.80
Total 🟰 €44.10
Subjective feeling out of 10 on:
Enjoyment: 6/10 - pleased to reach Lugo earlier. But annoyed no kitchen and no wifi.
Fatigue: 4/10 - felt a lot more tired today. More of a slog to get to Lugo.
Ease of terrain: 4/10
Highlights - made a plan to walk to Finisterra and have booked accommodation in Santiago for the 26th. Also checked out the bus timetable from Finisterra to Santiago. I’ll just have to see if I can make it happen. As it would mean some pretty big walking days over the next 5 days.
Challenges - the municipal albergues in this county don’t have kitchen facilities and to use the wifi you need a working phone. Eg. I can’t sign up for the wifi as I’m not using my phone internationally. I have it on aeroplane ✈️ mode all the time. Plus they now cost €10 compared to the €6/7 I was paying previously. Some private albergues are only €14 and they have wifi and kitchens. So I’m starting to think it’s better for me to pay slightly more to get better facilities. Still trying hard to stick to a budget of €20 per day.
🥾 The Camino Primitivo 🇪🇸 ℹ️ Stats - Day 10
Date: Friday 22nd September
Weather: coldish - grey skies a little bit of drizzle and 2 rainbows 🌈 🌈
From: Lugo
Start time: 7.45 am
To: As Seixas
End time: 2.50pm
Accommodation: municipal albergue - top bunk (my choice - as the room was so dark - I wanted more light)
Terrain: lots of road walking today with a few gravel paths and forest paths.
🥾Miles: 20 miles
🦶Steps: 43,062
Total miles: 145/199 = 73% done ✅
💰Costs: albergue €10
€12.50 - starter (tuna salad) , main (chicken & chips), desert (cake) & 3 glasses of vino blanco !!! 🤪🤪🤪
Total €22.50
Subjective feeling out of 10 on:
Enjoyment: 9/10 - solid day. Really pleased to have walked 20 miles. Which was my
minimum if I want to go to Fisterra.
Fatigue: 3/10 - took a while to get warmed up and needed to stop for food at 10am ish. But was flying in the afternoon.
Ease of terrain: 2/10 - relatively flat. Nothing that challenging.
Highlights - great dinner at the albergue next door to the municipal- great price and just what I needed. FaceTimed mum & dad. Always good to chat!
Challenges - trying to work out if I want to walk to Fisterra or not? I need to do some big miles over the next few days if I decided to commit.
Watch the vlog HERE
🥾 The Camino Primitivo 🇪🇸 ℹ️ Stats - Day 11
Date: Saturday 23rd September
Weather: cold in the morning. Hot in the afternoon and changed back into shorts.
From: As Seixas
Start time: 8.30am
To: Santa Irene
End time: 5.30pm
Accommodation: municipal albergue - bottom bunk.
Terrain: felt like majority of today was road walking.
🥾Miles: 28.7
🦶Steps: 58,325
Total miles: 172.5/199 = 87% done ✅
💰Costs: €1.50 gluten & diary free cake 🍰
€2.50 Coke Zero - basically paid to use the bathroom!
€10 albergue
Total 🟰€14
Subjective feeling out of 10 on:
Enjoyment: 8/10 it was so nice to walk through some familiar places.
Fatigue: 5/10 - started to get tired around 5pm - I was waiting for the 2nd wind to kick in - it didn’t!!
Ease of terrain: 3/10 - relatively flat and easy walking.
Highlights - at least by doing the bigger day today - should make the next few days easier!
Challenges - going over on my left ankle before I’d even started walking for the day.
Doing a much bigger day in terms of distance and time on feet than I wanted. Starting to notice a lot more pilgrims on the trail.
🥾 The Camino Primitivo 🇪🇸 ℹ️ Stats - Day 12 - Final Day!
Date: Sunday 24th September
Weather: hot and sunny ☀️
From: Santa Irene
Start time: 8.10am
To: Santiago de Compostela - Cathedral
End time: 12.30pm
Accommodation: none - carried on walking
Terrain: road walking, a few first paths and gravel tracks.
🥾Miles: 15 miles
🦶Steps: 31,346
Total miles: 199/199 = 100% done ✅
💰Costs: €5 2x pilgrim’s certificates and cardboard tube to carry them home in.
Subjective feeling out of 10 on:
Enjoyment: 8/10 - I still enjoyed it - but it was very overwhelming - so many people.
Fatigue: 5/10. I felt tired today. It was hard doing the miles. Left ankle is feeling weak.
Ease of terrain: 3/10 pretty flat walking. Lots of road to content with.
Highlights - always nice to complete a goal you set out to achieve. I got a stunning photo of me & the Cathedral- especially when done in black and white 🥳
Challenges - the night was awful - the albergue was full of mosquitoes 🦟 and I kept getting bit. I needed to take an anti histamine. Couldn’t wait until morning.
The final few miles - wow!! So busy!! So many pilgrims- just people everywhere!
Watch the full vlog HERE
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